Some people say, “one day in Athens is enough”, but I couldn’t disagree more. The more time I spend there, the more I discover and fall in love with this ancient and complicated city. When in Athens, my favorite things to see and do are both very old (see: 2500 years old) and very, very new, which makes it a captivating place to visit whether it’s your first time or your twentieth.

Stay

My recent stay at Monsier Didot was great. If you want a boutique hotel experience on a quiet street in Kolonaki, this is your place. I stayed here for an entire week and they really made me feel at home. I stayed in their Ode Room, which I chose because of its beautiful atrium bathroom and terrace. The daily in-room breakfast is as tasty as it is Instagrammable.

The hotel is located on the border of two very different Athenian neighborhoods, Kolonaki and Exarchia. Kolonaki is known for its high-end retail stores, restaurants and museums. Exarchia, which quickly became my new favorite Athenian neighborhood, is a hip and alternative neighborhood of artist residents, art galleries, record shops, book stores, great food and laidback bars.

I’ve stayed at many other hotels in Athens including the NEW Hotel, Hotel Grande Bretagne, and 18 Micon Street, which are all wonderful depending on your budget and location preference.

To do

NOTE: Before venturing out to any of these spots check Google Maps for their hours. Many/most of these spots are closed on Sundays, Monday, even Tuesdays.

Acropolis

I think prioritizing a visit to the Acropolis goes without saying? In the summer it is very hot and very crowded to make the pilgrimage up Acropolis Hill. I recommend to either go first thing in the morning or right before the last tickets are sold in the evening.

Tip: Wear shoes with good traction. Steps and walkways on the Hill can be uneven and slippery

The Acropolis Museum

Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Athina 117 42, Greece

Don’t miss it.

Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation Museum

Eratosthenous 13, Athina 116 35, Greece

I’ve been waiting for a fine arts museum of this calibre to open in Athens. The collection is dynamic, expansive, and expensive. It is estimated that the collection is worth 3 billion US dollars. It’s no wonder with paintings, sculptures (as well as some furniture and china) by the likes of El Greco, Picasso, Van Gogh, Pollock, Rodin, Kandinsky, Monet, and many more. My favorite part of this museum is the top two floors, which is dedicated to modern and contemporary Greek artists.

TIP: The museum is only a 5 minute walk to the Panathenaic Stadium, see both in one day!

Benaki Museum

Koumpari 1, Athina 106 74, Greece

Located near Hellenic Parliament (stop by to see the Changing of the Guard), the Benaki Museum houses an incredible array of Greek art and artifacts. From Ancient Greek jewelry to Byzantine iconography and folk costumes owned by the former Queen of Greece, their collection gives visitors a comprehensive view at Greek culture spanning thousands of years.

Eat

Philos

Solonos 32, Athina 106 73, Greece

One of the best places for breakfast and brunch.

TIP: make a reservation if you’re looking to brunch at Philos on the weekend

Restaurant Scholarhio

Tripodon 14, Athina 105 56, Greece

I love this taverna not only because of it’s central location, but also for the way it serves its home cooked meze (small plates). You pay a set fee for a particular number of plates depending on how many people are in your party. The waiter brings you a giant round tray full of small plates to choose exactly which dishes you want to eat. This is especially great for those who aren’t familiar with the names of the many traditional Greek dishes. They do have a few items that don’t make the tray, so be sure to ask about those too. Their veggies are grown on a family farm, and the proof is in the flavor of their dishes. At the end of your meal each person is served a piece of portokalopita (orange pie) which is included in the price.

Kostas

Pl. Agias Irinis 2, Athina 105 60, Greece

Greek street food, simple, affordable and quick (depending on how long the line is). The beefteki pita sandwich pork souvkali skewers are small, so I recommend getting one of each per person, or more depending on how hungry you are. Their fries are great too.

Ergon House

23, Mitropoleos Street, Athina 105 57, Greece

This spot is for foodies. Think - the Eataly of Greek food. Have a sit-down meal or browse their incredible selection of packaged Greek specialty foods and products.

Díporto

Sokratous 9 &, Theatrou, Athina 105 52, Greece

You could walk past this place a thousand times and never realize it’s a restaurant. Located in the basement of a somewhat abandoned looking building is a small old school taverna. This place serves up a small assortment of traditional Greek specialties daily. When you sit down the waiter brings you a little carafe of wine and some bread. Although they mostly serve a few dishes (whatever’s fresh) its certainly worth a stop in for lunch.

Oxo Nou

106 81, Emmanouil Benaki 63, Athina 106 81, Greece

I had an amazing Cretan dinner at this restaurant in Exarchia thanks to the recommendation of the Monsieur Didot staff.

Ο Λόλος (Ο Lolos)

Geor. Olimpiou 5, Athina 117 41, Greece

A casual taverna that will be full of locals at dinnertime

- 14 Παγωτό (-14 Ice Cream)

Athinaidos 3, Athina 105 63, Greece

This is my favorite ice cream shop in Plaka. My go-to order: the Greek yogurt ice cream with cherry preserves on top in a kataifi (Greek pastry) cup

LUKUMAΔΕΣ

Eolou 21, & Aghias Irinis Str, Athina 105 51, Greece

Here you can grab some loukoumades, or Greek donuts, with various toppings. I prefer loukoumades with the traditional toppings of honey and cinnamon, but there are plenty of other options for those who are more adventurous.

Coffee break

Morning Bar

Odissea Androutsou 36, Athina 117 41, Greece

The best espresso I’ve had in Greece. Period. Owned by Greek brand ME THEN, this coffee shop is a little out of the way, however there are a few cool concept stores (Trabala Studio Ceramic Shop, LOFI & Area) on the same street.

Anana Coffee|Food

Praxitelous 33, Athina 105 60, Greece

One of my favorite coffee shops in Athens, Anana serves great freddo cappuccinos, pour over coffee and vegetarian bites if you’re feeling peckish.

Foyer Espresso Bar

Panepistimiou 46, Athina 105 64, Greece

This shop carries coffees from some of our favorite European roasters, like Five Elephant and The Barn from Berlin.

Thirdplace.Athens

Apollonos 23Β, Athina 105 57, Greece

This coffee shop is a design lovers dream and their coffee is great, too.

Grab a drink

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Athina 105 61, Greece

One of the best bars in the world. Don’t expect your run of the mill cocktail bar, this place serves up classics with a twist as well as a large variety of unique cocktails containing flavor combinations you’d never dream of.

Baba au rum

Klitiou 6, Athina 105 60, Greece

Another essential Athens bar where both tourists and locals can be seen sipping rum-based cocktails

Heteroclito

Petraki 30, Athina 105 63, Greece

Relaxed and hip wine bar with delicious small plates very close to Ermou Street shopping and Syntagma Square. It’s the kind of place you can go with friends to sit and chat for hours, or come alone with a good book or to people watch.

Couleur Locale

Normanou 3, Athina 105 55, Greece

Located in Monastiraki, this place is part restaurant, part art gallery, part rooftop bar. I recommend heading all the way upstairs to the bar on the top floor, which boasts and incredible view of the Acropolis. Order an Athenian Spritz for me!

Looking to barhop in central Athens? The streets of Psyrri come alive at night with the sound of music and conversation. Every bar is busy with people spilling into the streets and you can feel an energy unique to nights in Athens in the air.

Shop

ANAMESA CONCEPT STORE

Nikis 24, Syntagma, Athens 105 57, Greece

Women’s clothing and accessories from emerging Greek designers

Flâneur Souvenirs & Supplies

Flessa 1, Athina 105 58, Greece

This shop is the perfect place to pick up Greece-themed tees, totes, and other souvenirs. Many of the items stocked at Flâneur are designed and made by Greek creatives who love to incorporate Hellenic culture into items you will want to take home with you.

Forget Me Not

Adrianou 100, Athina 105 58, Greece

Another great spot for Greece-themed souvenirs that aren’t cheesy. Don’t miss their downstairs shop, which also has Greek-made sandals, women’s designer clothing and more.

Ancient Greek Sandals Flagship Store

Kolokotroni 1, Athina 105 62, Greece

The wildly popular heritage brand Ancient Greek Sandals recently opened their flagship store in Athens, and it’s worth the stop in to shop their beautiful Greek-made shoes and accessories.

Up for a Shopping Crawl?

Start at - Voulis 4, Athina 105 62, Greece - this is the entrance of the Stoa Emporon, one of the most iconic stoa/shopping arcades in Athens. It’s my personal favorite and will be yours too if you’re a fan of neon signs and retro Greek typefaces. Now known as the Passage of the Merchants, this stoa has seen new life thanks to a This is Athens, who’s curated a group of makers, artists and independent boutiques to occupy its long abandoned retail spaces. Take the stairs at the end of the stoa, when you get to the street (Lekka) turn right and the street name changes to Praxitelous Street.

Praxitelous Street - has some of the best indie boutiques, my favorite cafe and one of the world’s best bars. What more could you ask for?

First you’ll hit Paraphernalia - which is actually on loannou Paparrigopoulou street - a great stop for those looking to shop modern/minimal housewares and objects from throughout Europe

loannou Paparrigopoulou 15, Athina 105 61, Greece

Then…

A Future Perfect & Friends

Praxitelous 23, Athina 105 62, Greece

Shop a variety of different Greek-made and Greek-inspired souvenirs that are playful but not cheesy

And…

Neon Raum

Leocharous 17, Athina 105 60, Greece

Take the stairs up to the first floor (for Americans, its the second floor) and you’ll find yourself in a roomy boutique that specializes in vintage clothing and indie Greek designers as well as a selection of magazines

The Clumbsies and Anana (both mentioned above) are also on this street and certainly worth a stop in.

I’ll forever be in wonder of Athens. I can’t wait to continue to discover new parts of this incredible city and share my finds with all of you.

All of the photos in this post were shot on 35mm film

Central Athens Guide

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